A Guide to Shopping for Vintage Jewelry

I have an extensive jewelry collection. From vintage jewelry to costume jewelry to fine pieces and watches. Adding a piece to your outfit instantly takes it up a notch. That’s my belief anyways, it can be such an inexpensive way of updating your look without spending too much.

Besides the usual retail stores and online shopping, I love carousing a vintage store or site for some original pieces. Most recently I bought an 80s piece (the blue and gold necklace above) and it came to me, I should share some tips on shopping for vintage jewelry on the blog!

Curating your own vintage jewelry collection is a fun hobby. It should come to reflect your personality and highlight the milestones and celebrations along your journey. Whether you’re celebrating a birthday, wedding, or just life in general, there is something out there for every occasion! A good collection of vintage jewelry grows to feature a mix of statement earrings, pearls, tassels, and brooches galore. The best part about owning a vintage jewelry collection is that it will forever hold its value for you and your family.

And, in order to curate your own vintage jewelry collection, there are a few things you need to know. Ready to experience the magic of vintage? It’s pretty awesome I have to say. Just don’t get it confused with antique jewelry, that’s a whole other category.

Vintage vs. Antique vs. Costume

Let’s start with the term vintage, which typically refers to jewelry that is at least 20 years old. Antique jewelry, is defined as at least 100 years old. Many of the styles you’ve probably heard about — Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Art Nouveau and Retro — originated during the early 1900s and are considered antique. In turn, these early eras inspired the design of vintage costume jewelry from the 1950s-1990s.

As you become more familiar with vintage jewelry, you’ll notice a lot of recurring themes originating in antique designs that are still prominent today. Keep your eyes out for flora, fauna, enamel, kitschy motifs, figurals, and rhinestones.

Often, you may hear vintage jewelry referred to as “costume jewelry.” This usually refers to pieces that make a big style statement, and are not made of real gold and/or precious stones. I would say costume jewelry is also relevant to the new styles found at stores like Forever 21 etc.

Quality

With vintage jewelry, you can expect quality and craftsmanship that’s far superior to today’s costume jewelry. Primarily American made, most of the pieces were originally produced in the Northeastern United States. Vintage costume jewelry was made using a mixed base metal, and then triple-plated with either gold or silver. The result? Even pieces that are decades old won’t easily tarnish. And, because the base metal is farther away from the skin, people with skin sensitivities are often able to wear vintage jewelry (Note: sterling silver and gold filled pieces are higher quality than plain gold and silver plated pieces; we always note if a piece falls into one of these categories in the product descriptions). Conversely, modern costume jewelry manufacturers only plate costume jewelry one time, so it is more likely to tarnish quickly and cause irritation to sensitive skin.

Other popular materials frequently used in vintage jewelry include glass, shell, wood, Lucite, celluloid, enamel, Bakelite, imitation pearls and stones, tiger’s eye, and opals. Most of the rhinestones and other stones used in the designs are glass and semi-precious, versus in modern costume jewelry, which typically uses acrylic rhinestones.

All of these high quality standards are good news for you: Your spark will last forever if you care for it properly! Speaking of…

Cleaning, Repair & Care

When it comes to cleaning vintage costume jewelry, the number one rule is not to get rhinestones, pearls, enamel or other delicate designs and details wet. The best way to clean these types of jewelry is to dust with a dry, soft toothbrush or aerosol keyboard spray can. An equal mixture of Windex and water is great for pieces that are gold or silver plated. For sterling silver, I love using sunshine cloths to polish.

Should a stone or pearl come loose, the best way to repair it is by using an epoxy glue.

Designer Signed

If a piece is signed, it means that somewhere on the actual design, the original designer has signed their name, much like a logo. This usually doesn’t happen on today’s costume jewelry. However, signed pieces do not necessarily indicate higher quality than unsigned pieces — vintage jewelry is often high quality, regardless of who made it! If you are an avid Antiques Roadshow viewer like me (I LOVE that show), you would have heard this before.

Value & Condition

The value of vintage costume jewelry varies based on the style, designer, how rare it is, and when it was originally manufactured.

Now, About Clip-ons…

Piercing ears wasn’t popular until the late 70s, so much of vintage earrings were clip-ons. Contrary to popular belief, a clipped backing makes this statement earring look better when worn, and prevents drooping! There are three different styles of clip-on backs, and some are more comfortable than others.

The oldest and most comfortable style is the screw back, which can be adjusted for comfort. Designer signed clip-on backs tended to use the latest technology of the time, and are more comfortable than the standard fold over backs that most tend to think of when they hear “clip-on.”

It is difficult to properly convert clip-on earrings to pierced backs with soldering, because in order to attach a post, the metal needs to be heated and it can damage stones and details on the earrings.

Well I hope this inspires you to try the fun world of vintage jewelry shopping!

P.S. Another bonus: Buying a piece from a vacation spot is also a nice way to bring home a souvenir that you can wear and enjoy!